The world of professional skincare evolves so quickly that sometimes we forget about the basics.
To revisit some of our most essential work, we asked some of the best estheticians for their opinions on how to handle the five most frequent skin concerns that clients have: fine lines and wrinkles, acne, hyperpigmentation, texture issues, and rosacea.
Continue reading to see how they answered our simple questions.
What are a few tried-and-true ingredients or treatments?
- Flushing the follicles: Daily use benzoyl peroxide or an alpha hydroxyl acid (AHA)/beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) blend. AHA/BHA peels are great, but the daily 10 per cent alpha, beta, or blend is what clears follicles and keeps them clear.
- Elimination of fatty ingredients: Use only tested lightweight skincare and makeup products free of clogging fats.
- Effective cleansers that control excess sebum: I recommend a foaming benzoyl peroxide cleanser in the morning and a non-comedogenic milk cleanser in the evening for makeup removal (some makeup removers can leave residues).
What's a new ingredient or treatment that has piqued your interest?
I am excited about adding mandelic acid to the arsenal, which has brightening effects for pigmented acne-prone skin. I'm particularly intrigued by some more recent additions, such as lichochalcone, which has antioxidants that help to soothe.
What are some of the most persistent myths that need to be busted?
Food does not have nearly as significant a role in acne as many believe. Food does not affect acne unless the client's diet is awful—and even then, it's not the food; it's the hormones affected by a horrible diet. Suppose you eat pizza on Wednesday that did not cause your zit on Thursday (unless you put the greasy pizza on your face). Second, a breakout is not the skin "purging" itself after a facial treatment. Inflammation from the face, extractions, and maybe overstimulating products are to blame for the breakout. Many products on the market have not had proper irritancy testing, and they can cause these flares.
CLEARING THE CLOGS
Clogs can be removed with extraction treatments and light salicylic peels, but the client must also care for the skin regularly to achieve and maintain clearing. Clients with acne-prone and clog-prone skin must use a daily chemo-exfoliant to continually slough and remove dead-cell buildup and clear clogs so air may penetrate the follicle. Anaerobic p. acne cells die when exposed to oxygen; this procedure destroys them.
This goal can be achieved daily by using a leave-on alpha hydroxy (AHA-glycolic, lactic acids) and beta hydroxy (BHA-salicylic acid) gel. Benzoyl peroxide gel can help kill bacteria in the skin with clogged pores and frequent papules or pustules. This treatment technique must continue as cells build up even after the clogged pores and acne have cleared. In a nutshell, the hydroxy acids and benzoyl gel break up existing congestion while also helping to prevent future congestion.